El Chalten Hiking Trails
El Chalten Hiking Trails
El Chalten Hiking Trails
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BobSt23
Sídney, Australia618 aportes
abr de 2023 • Solitario
For all its majesty and its famous Mount Fitz Roy, the actual number of walks in El Chalten isn’t that many. However, quality trumps quantity in this case. There are really 2 major hikes – Mt Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. Both are challenging but can be managed by averagely fit people who take their time.
I attempted both in consecutive days and it proved too much on Day 2. The first hike was to Cerro Torre. This walk is longer than advertised, as the distances you read about start at the entry point of the national park, which in this case is about a kilometre from the beginning of the trail. Also, you have to get to the trailhead from town, another kilometre or so. Therefore the actual hike is closer to 24 km rather than 20. It makes a difference at the end.
I began before sunrise, which in April was still 8 am. It was bitterly cold to start and you have to have layers. Head warmth is particularly important. Starting this early allows you to enjoy the splendour of the sun striking the rocky mountaintops before everywhere else, a fantastic sight.
After the initial steep ascent, the rest of the trail is surprisingly subtle in its rise. The trail is rough in patches so care needs to be taken most of the hike. The views along the way are magnificent, they never really let up, be it the mountains, the river, the valleys or the autumn colours in April. It makes the hike pass quickly.
At the end of the trail is the last short climb to the lake beneath the peak. All of a sudden it became a bit breezy, but when I reached the top overlooking the lake, that breeze had become a hurricane strength gale. The change in the space of a few minutes was extraordinary. This was seriously blow you over wind. The few people who had reached the lake had to huddle behind any stone they could to be able to take a photo. It was crazy. And very cold. The iceberg in the lake was testament to that. There is another lookout a bit further up along a very poorly delineated track, which is probably more guesswork than anything else. I tried but the wind was so strong, I was worried I might be blown off the narrow ridge and had to turn back.
On the return journey, I passed many people who had started later in the day. This really is a poor choice. The weather was beginning to turn in the afternoon and the views were starting to be misted out. So, the early start is definitely the best option.
Day 2, my intention was noble but the flesh was weak. Wearied after the first day, I started the Base walk from Hotel Pilar. A shuttle bus stops at various hotels and takes you to Pilar at the far end of the mountain, so you are actually walking back towards the town. This is an 18-kilometre trail, plus an extra 4 or 5 for the climb to Fitz Roy. I’m unsure how hard the detour to the base of Fitz Roy is, it’s listed as a challenging climb, though it didn’t look too bad from a distance. I personally felt it was too risky. I felt OK when I got to the track and didn’t want to expire and struggle to make it back to town. But that’s the thing. If, like me, you might feel the extra climb is beyond you, just walking this trail from Hotel Pilar back to town is a great hike. The views along the way are many, especially the varying views of Fitz Roy. The track is manageable – hard in parts but also flat in many. The last 4 km from Laguna Capri is downhill all the way. Doing the hike this way is longer than the alternative “easier” option. But I stress do not opt for this so-called easier walk. It is the 4 km from the town to the lake with one view of Fitz Roy. And this is 4 km of relentless uphill. The effort is not worth it. Whereas, doing the one-way trail offers so many viewpoints and so many interesting other things to see along the route.
I was fortunate, on Day 2 especially, that the weather was bright and sunny. Every visage was crisp and clear. On a more miserable day, these walks would be far less enjoyment and more tribulation. Without the benefit of sun, hiking El Chalten would be more about saying you finished, rather than loving the experience.
The El Chalten trails are famous for a reason and any journey to Patagonia should definitely include them.
Check out my other reviews of places, hotels and experiences throughout South America.
I attempted both in consecutive days and it proved too much on Day 2. The first hike was to Cerro Torre. This walk is longer than advertised, as the distances you read about start at the entry point of the national park, which in this case is about a kilometre from the beginning of the trail. Also, you have to get to the trailhead from town, another kilometre or so. Therefore the actual hike is closer to 24 km rather than 20. It makes a difference at the end.
I began before sunrise, which in April was still 8 am. It was bitterly cold to start and you have to have layers. Head warmth is particularly important. Starting this early allows you to enjoy the splendour of the sun striking the rocky mountaintops before everywhere else, a fantastic sight.
After the initial steep ascent, the rest of the trail is surprisingly subtle in its rise. The trail is rough in patches so care needs to be taken most of the hike. The views along the way are magnificent, they never really let up, be it the mountains, the river, the valleys or the autumn colours in April. It makes the hike pass quickly.
At the end of the trail is the last short climb to the lake beneath the peak. All of a sudden it became a bit breezy, but when I reached the top overlooking the lake, that breeze had become a hurricane strength gale. The change in the space of a few minutes was extraordinary. This was seriously blow you over wind. The few people who had reached the lake had to huddle behind any stone they could to be able to take a photo. It was crazy. And very cold. The iceberg in the lake was testament to that. There is another lookout a bit further up along a very poorly delineated track, which is probably more guesswork than anything else. I tried but the wind was so strong, I was worried I might be blown off the narrow ridge and had to turn back.
On the return journey, I passed many people who had started later in the day. This really is a poor choice. The weather was beginning to turn in the afternoon and the views were starting to be misted out. So, the early start is definitely the best option.
Day 2, my intention was noble but the flesh was weak. Wearied after the first day, I started the Base walk from Hotel Pilar. A shuttle bus stops at various hotels and takes you to Pilar at the far end of the mountain, so you are actually walking back towards the town. This is an 18-kilometre trail, plus an extra 4 or 5 for the climb to Fitz Roy. I’m unsure how hard the detour to the base of Fitz Roy is, it’s listed as a challenging climb, though it didn’t look too bad from a distance. I personally felt it was too risky. I felt OK when I got to the track and didn’t want to expire and struggle to make it back to town. But that’s the thing. If, like me, you might feel the extra climb is beyond you, just walking this trail from Hotel Pilar back to town is a great hike. The views along the way are many, especially the varying views of Fitz Roy. The track is manageable – hard in parts but also flat in many. The last 4 km from Laguna Capri is downhill all the way. Doing the hike this way is longer than the alternative “easier” option. But I stress do not opt for this so-called easier walk. It is the 4 km from the town to the lake with one view of Fitz Roy. And this is 4 km of relentless uphill. The effort is not worth it. Whereas, doing the one-way trail offers so many viewpoints and so many interesting other things to see along the route.
I was fortunate, on Day 2 especially, that the weather was bright and sunny. Every visage was crisp and clear. On a more miserable day, these walks would be far less enjoyment and more tribulation. Without the benefit of sun, hiking El Chalten would be more about saying you finished, rather than loving the experience.
The El Chalten trails are famous for a reason and any journey to Patagonia should definitely include them.
Check out my other reviews of places, hotels and experiences throughout South America.
Escrita el 12 de junio de 2023
Esta opinión es la opinión subjetiva de un miembro de Tripadvisor, no de Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor les hace controles a todas las opiniones.
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