Tres Valles Fly Fishing Lodge
Tres Valles Fly Fishing Lodge
Ruta Provincial 19 km 80 Cno. Comuna Rural Atilio Viglione, Río Pico 9225 Argentina
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Ruta Provincial 19 km 80 Cno. Comuna Rural Atilio Viglione, Río Pico 9225 Argentina
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Exquisito lodge - unos 10 años - sólo 4 dormitorios suites, todas idénticas. Impresionantes vistas, enorme espacio de almacenamiento seguro, armario/con baño completo y ducha con dos lavabos. Lodge tiene una habitación para botas/aparejos waders chalecos, hermosa inmersión/sala de estar con chimenea, bar y comedor, además de un bar de arriba y zona de salón, todas con hermosas vistas del lago y las montañas. Muchas opciones de pesca en arroyos y lagos. Los guías son algunos de los expertos más profesional, atento que he visto. Completo almuerzo diario en arroyo o lago. La cocina está prácticamente Cordon Bleu y hornear su material propio pan y propone platos creativos. Éste es en verdad de primera clase!
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Fecha de la estadía: marzo de 2017Tipo de viaje: Viajé con amigos
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Consejo sobre las habitaciones: They are all the same - spectacular!
Esta opinión es la opinión subjetiva de un miembro de Tripadvisor, no de Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor les hace controles a todas las opiniones.
Lo pasamos excelente en Tres Valles. Las vistas son impresionantes. Nos despertamos cada mañana con vistas al lago y la cordillera de los Andes. El Lodge fue cómodo. El personal era muy atento y servicial. descubrieron que no comer ciertos alimentos y planeado las comidas por mí. También sirven verduras frescas del jardín y el vino nunca parado. Cuando pesca almorzamos en el río o lago con ropa de cama, vajilla y una comida de 3 platos. No dudes en reservar si tenéis la oportunidad. fue una experiencia increíble
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Fecha de la estadía: marzo de 2014Tipo de viaje: Viajé con mi pareja
Esta opinión es la opinión subjetiva de un miembro de Tripadvisor, no de Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor les hace controles a todas las opiniones.
+1
Crowds
You arrive at Tres Valles after a 3 hour truck ride from the airport in Esquel. There are roads to guide you, and while some of them are paved and smooth, most of the trip covers surfaces which you wouldn't immediately recognize as a road. If we had added up the number of cars that passed us going in the opposite direction, we wouldn't have needed more than two hands to keep the tally. For some background, we got to that 3 hour drive after the 2 hour flight to Esquel from Buenos Aires. And BA was a days' worth of travel from our home in New York City. Point being we didn't expect to see any familiar faces (nor many faces in general) down in Patagonia and we didn't. The little airport in Esquel was a dream after dealing with big city airports all trip long.
Over the course of the week that we fished the streams, rivers and lakes surrounding Tres Valles, the number of cows, sheep (and fish, for that matter) that we saw outnumbered the people we saw by a very healthy margin. It reminded me of being on safari in Africa - you are in a land that doesn't so much as belong to the humans as it does to the nature. I saw but two other fisherman on the waters I fished over the course of an entire week. And these guys were trespassing on a private ranch so I shouldn’t even really count them. The water in question was a very pretty back-channel stretch of the Rio Pico, on a private ranch in a beautiful valley surrounded on all sides by mountains. Many of those mountains were showing off by being wonderfully snow-capped even though summer was knocking on the door. Oh, and this particular stretch of the Rio Pico was about a 70 minute drive from the lodge, so add that to the 3 hour and 2 hour and 24 hour timeframe from before if you will. My guide attempted to get the trespassers attention by whistling at them, but either the wind was too heavy for them to hear or they chose to ignore us and keep walking and casting upstream, away from us. Looking back on it I think it was probably a combination of both. I presume the whistle would have been followed by some stern questioning but I’ll never know. Anyways this is a diversion. In an era of fighting for elbow space on good water, having pristine stretches of prime water all to myself, not to mention the fact that this water holds some whopper trout, was a treat.
There is something very healthy about getting away from people and if you come to Tres Valles that’s one part of the deal. I love many people and usually enjoy their company. I’m usually surrounded by them in fact. But something about being away from them feels very natural as well. You could say it strikes a chord deep within us that probably touches some legacy DNA we shared with our ancestors all those centuries ago who didn't have to deal with crowds because crowds simply didn't exist.
Scenery
When you look out any window of the lodge at Tres Valles nature smacks you right in the face. For 6 days straight we had a close-up view of snow-capped mountain peaks, a crystal clear blue lake, and a Patagonian breeze which kept the abundant green trees in perpetual motion. To me, this doesn't just beat the pavement and tall buildings in New York City; it's frankly not even a fair fight and is something equivalent to the ten run rule in Little League being enforced. There is a beautiful and fish-full creek on the ranch's property called Arroyo Negro (if you speak Spanish). If you don't speak Spanish, just call it the Black Creek. Black Creek was a pretty fitting name, for unless the sun was shining bright, the water looked dark in color, although it was not muddy nor was it poor water. To the contrary it was great water. This little creek was no more than 3 or 4 feet wide in most places, but I'm told it was as deep as 9-10 feet in many places. And it was full of wild brown trout that are big enough so as to seem like they belong in bigger water. It reminded me of those big 80 pound dogs that some people keep in their tiny studio apartments in New York City. As you fish this creek, usually with a big dry, you are sharing space with grazing cows, soaring eagles, and mountains in every direction. I'm not a particularly by the book religious person, but when the sun came out while fishing this stream and when the wind died down a bit, I felt that this experience was my own little piece of Heaven.
To be balanced this scenery would be even better without the usual wind I battled in early December. (Most things would be better without the wind, unless you have an economic stake in a wind farm or are a kid trying to figure out how to get the kite off the ground). My recommendation would be to visit in January or February when I'm told that the weather is better, and the chance of gale force winds is lower (not zero, but lower). I appreciate a challenge when fly fishing, but would rather cast my fly line without having to account for a steady 20 mph breeze right into my face. One fringe benefit of the wind is that you learn how to use it to your advantage, and it's going to make fishing my home rivers, with their relative lack of a breeze, a breeze.
Hosts
The Lodge is managed by the husband and wife team of Simon and Guillermina. After a little bit of travel (but not nearly enough yet), I've come to believe that any trip can be turned from merely a good trip into an excellent trip by the people you meet and how they treat you and make you feel. Simon and Guillermina are fantastic hosts. We felt welcome, taken care of and we that we were friends, right off the bat.
I ruined my camera on my first day of fishing. As far as killing a camera, I couldn't have done it in any more romantic of a way. I was wading chest deep in a nice pool on a beautiful and overlooked creek located deep behind about 3 or 4 closed gates that we had access to as guests of the Lodge. I was casting to a rising rainbow. I had just landed a nearly 20 inch brown trout just downstream in this pool about 10 minutes earlier. Anyways I went a little too deep, thought the upper pocket on my waders were waterproof, stuck my hands into these pockets after not enticing the rainbow into taking my fly, only to find a bunch of water in my maybe not waterproof after all pocket. My camera and phone had gotten soaked and were effectively dead. Big time bummer. I assumed that proof of the 20 inch Brown had just died with the water on my camera. With four days left to fish, and countless trophies to be hoisted (in my head, at least), I was pretty upset I had ruined my only method for recording my conquests. No worry. Simon and Guilla let me borrow and use a (waterproof) camera for the rest of my stay. (postscript: the memory card in my camera was fine and so were the pictures).
When I travel thousands of miles from home, to a country where I don't speak the native language, I get a little nervous, even though the excitement of the trip is certainly a greater emotion. Nonetheless, having people make you feel warm and welcome in this foreign place is really all any traveler can hope for. At Tres Valles this is exactly what happens. So, don't worry about it. Instead worry about how you are going to net that 20 inch brown you hooked on 6x tippet.
Fishing
We fished several different bodies of water. And I feel like I only scratched the surface of what the area has to offer. The Rio Pampas was blown out due to heavy rain from the night before so we only fished streamers where we could. We only saw one small part of the Rio Pico. I didn't see the Rio Nilson on this trip. I spent a fair bit of time on the aforementioned Black Creek, which I loved. We spent some time on the lake behind the lodge. The fish we saw and landed weren't uniformly big but rest assured there are plenty of big trout. For some reason I had assumed they would be easy to catch. We landed plenty of nice fish, but that assumption was not correct. You get one shot at these fish. If you miss the set, no fish for you. If you lose him in the branches or weeds, no fish for you. If he is successful in spitting the hook, and this will happen to you, no fish for you. The fishing here is great and rewarding for many reasons. You can catch big fish, the surroundings are beautiful, you fish in near solitude, and they are a challenge.
I think I love fishing mainly for that challenge. Of course there are many other reasons too - the scenery, the camaraderie, the fight. But it's really the challenge that I love most. If I am successful I will be holding a large, wild trout in my hands while a picture is snapped to commemorate the moment. And I will have accomplished this with a fake fly and a 3 ounce fly rod. But a lot has to go right for me to hold that fish. I could try jumping in the river, find a fish, and wrestle him into my arms but I would be unsuccessful 100 times out of 100. This challenge - finding the fish, finding the right fly, making the right cast, getting the right drift, making the right set, playing him right - is all consuming. Above all else it makes me live in the moment. I find this hard to do in my normal life.
Eating
The food was excellent. Some of the ingredients are easy enough to get. Like the grass fed beef. That's one benefit to staying on a working cattle ranch. But it takes more than ingredients to make a plate full of food turn into an empty plate. Juan is the chef and he cooked us some mean dishes. The highlights were probably the sheer variety of food we ate for lunch and dinner, as well as the asado (bbq) we had one afternoon out by the river. In looking forward to this trip, the naive American in me figured all I would eat in Argentina would be steak, and that all I would drink would be Malbec. Actually the latter almost turned out to be true, of my own choosing, but the few steaks I had were accompanied by stuffed chicken breast, beautiful ravioli's, and terrific fish. The asado was quite probably the highlight of the dining experience. We dined on a juicy ribeye, french fries, a fresh salad, and some of that Malbec, at a beautifully set table under a (mostly) blue sky, one day while fishing the Rio Pico. This ribeye and those fries were cooked over an open flame. This open flame materialized on a spot which just prior to our lunch was simply an open grassy area, somewhat protected by some bushes and trees so as to not let the wind put the fire out. It's a good thing that experiences like this aren't everyday fishing, for if it were the rivers might be overrun with spoiled fisherman.
One of the tangible benefits to eating well on this trip was that even if the fishing was slow, or the weather poor I could always look forward to the next meal with great expectations. If my sets were too quick, as they often were right after I spotted a monster brown rise from the depths to try to inhale my fly, I could relish the thought that the next meal back at the Lodge would not be any sort of disappointment like missing that fish was.
Comfort
The lodge was a warm and comfortable place to fall asleep in at night, to wake up to in the morning, and to lounge around in during the daytime when not throwing a size 4 Chernobyl ant at picky trout. The bed was very comfortable. It was very dark and very quiet at night, textbook sleeping conditions. The downstairs and upstairs common areas of the lodge were absolutely full of comfortable couches and massive windows. The shower pumped out hot water.
You know when you come upon something that doesn't seem to be a fit? Maybe it’s somebody who hates eating vegetables forcing down some brussel sprouts and trying to hide the discomfort. Or maybe it’s a dry fly enthusiast trying to fish a tiny nymph on the Rio Pico in howling wind. Tres Valles is a 5 star lodge sitting in the middle of remote central Patagonia – this pairing may not seem to fit at first blush. The area doesn't have electricity (lights were always on, however, due to their trusty generator). There are waaaaay more cows than people. The roads are not paved. But Tres Valles and Patagonia are the perfect match. I consider myself lucky to have been able to return to the Lodge’s abundance of comforts after a long day of trying to fool wily fish on a dry fly.
You arrive at Tres Valles after a 3 hour truck ride from the airport in Esquel. There are roads to guide you, and while some of them are paved and smooth, most of the trip covers surfaces which you wouldn't immediately recognize as a road. If we had added up the number of cars that passed us going in the opposite direction, we wouldn't have needed more than two hands to keep the tally. For some background, we got to that 3 hour drive after the 2 hour flight to Esquel from Buenos Aires. And BA was a days' worth of travel from our home in New York City. Point being we didn't expect to see any familiar faces (nor many faces in general) down in Patagonia and we didn't. The little airport in Esquel was a dream after dealing with big city airports all trip long.
Over the course of the week that we fished the streams, rivers and lakes surrounding Tres Valles, the number of cows, sheep (and fish, for that matter) that we saw outnumbered the people we saw by a very healthy margin. It reminded me of being on safari in Africa - you are in a land that doesn't so much as belong to the humans as it does to the nature. I saw but two other fisherman on the waters I fished over the course of an entire week. And these guys were trespassing on a private ranch so I shouldn’t even really count them. The water in question was a very pretty back-channel stretch of the Rio Pico, on a private ranch in a beautiful valley surrounded on all sides by mountains. Many of those mountains were showing off by being wonderfully snow-capped even though summer was knocking on the door. Oh, and this particular stretch of the Rio Pico was about a 70 minute drive from the lodge, so add that to the 3 hour and 2 hour and 24 hour timeframe from before if you will. My guide attempted to get the trespassers attention by whistling at them, but either the wind was too heavy for them to hear or they chose to ignore us and keep walking and casting upstream, away from us. Looking back on it I think it was probably a combination of both. I presume the whistle would have been followed by some stern questioning but I’ll never know. Anyways this is a diversion. In an era of fighting for elbow space on good water, having pristine stretches of prime water all to myself, not to mention the fact that this water holds some whopper trout, was a treat.
There is something very healthy about getting away from people and if you come to Tres Valles that’s one part of the deal. I love many people and usually enjoy their company. I’m usually surrounded by them in fact. But something about being away from them feels very natural as well. You could say it strikes a chord deep within us that probably touches some legacy DNA we shared with our ancestors all those centuries ago who didn't have to deal with crowds because crowds simply didn't exist.
Scenery
When you look out any window of the lodge at Tres Valles nature smacks you right in the face. For 6 days straight we had a close-up view of snow-capped mountain peaks, a crystal clear blue lake, and a Patagonian breeze which kept the abundant green trees in perpetual motion. To me, this doesn't just beat the pavement and tall buildings in New York City; it's frankly not even a fair fight and is something equivalent to the ten run rule in Little League being enforced. There is a beautiful and fish-full creek on the ranch's property called Arroyo Negro (if you speak Spanish). If you don't speak Spanish, just call it the Black Creek. Black Creek was a pretty fitting name, for unless the sun was shining bright, the water looked dark in color, although it was not muddy nor was it poor water. To the contrary it was great water. This little creek was no more than 3 or 4 feet wide in most places, but I'm told it was as deep as 9-10 feet in many places. And it was full of wild brown trout that are big enough so as to seem like they belong in bigger water. It reminded me of those big 80 pound dogs that some people keep in their tiny studio apartments in New York City. As you fish this creek, usually with a big dry, you are sharing space with grazing cows, soaring eagles, and mountains in every direction. I'm not a particularly by the book religious person, but when the sun came out while fishing this stream and when the wind died down a bit, I felt that this experience was my own little piece of Heaven.
To be balanced this scenery would be even better without the usual wind I battled in early December. (Most things would be better without the wind, unless you have an economic stake in a wind farm or are a kid trying to figure out how to get the kite off the ground). My recommendation would be to visit in January or February when I'm told that the weather is better, and the chance of gale force winds is lower (not zero, but lower). I appreciate a challenge when fly fishing, but would rather cast my fly line without having to account for a steady 20 mph breeze right into my face. One fringe benefit of the wind is that you learn how to use it to your advantage, and it's going to make fishing my home rivers, with their relative lack of a breeze, a breeze.
Hosts
The Lodge is managed by the husband and wife team of Simon and Guillermina. After a little bit of travel (but not nearly enough yet), I've come to believe that any trip can be turned from merely a good trip into an excellent trip by the people you meet and how they treat you and make you feel. Simon and Guillermina are fantastic hosts. We felt welcome, taken care of and we that we were friends, right off the bat.
I ruined my camera on my first day of fishing. As far as killing a camera, I couldn't have done it in any more romantic of a way. I was wading chest deep in a nice pool on a beautiful and overlooked creek located deep behind about 3 or 4 closed gates that we had access to as guests of the Lodge. I was casting to a rising rainbow. I had just landed a nearly 20 inch brown trout just downstream in this pool about 10 minutes earlier. Anyways I went a little too deep, thought the upper pocket on my waders were waterproof, stuck my hands into these pockets after not enticing the rainbow into taking my fly, only to find a bunch of water in my maybe not waterproof after all pocket. My camera and phone had gotten soaked and were effectively dead. Big time bummer. I assumed that proof of the 20 inch Brown had just died with the water on my camera. With four days left to fish, and countless trophies to be hoisted (in my head, at least), I was pretty upset I had ruined my only method for recording my conquests. No worry. Simon and Guilla let me borrow and use a (waterproof) camera for the rest of my stay. (postscript: the memory card in my camera was fine and so were the pictures).
When I travel thousands of miles from home, to a country where I don't speak the native language, I get a little nervous, even though the excitement of the trip is certainly a greater emotion. Nonetheless, having people make you feel warm and welcome in this foreign place is really all any traveler can hope for. At Tres Valles this is exactly what happens. So, don't worry about it. Instead worry about how you are going to net that 20 inch brown you hooked on 6x tippet.
Fishing
We fished several different bodies of water. And I feel like I only scratched the surface of what the area has to offer. The Rio Pampas was blown out due to heavy rain from the night before so we only fished streamers where we could. We only saw one small part of the Rio Pico. I didn't see the Rio Nilson on this trip. I spent a fair bit of time on the aforementioned Black Creek, which I loved. We spent some time on the lake behind the lodge. The fish we saw and landed weren't uniformly big but rest assured there are plenty of big trout. For some reason I had assumed they would be easy to catch. We landed plenty of nice fish, but that assumption was not correct. You get one shot at these fish. If you miss the set, no fish for you. If you lose him in the branches or weeds, no fish for you. If he is successful in spitting the hook, and this will happen to you, no fish for you. The fishing here is great and rewarding for many reasons. You can catch big fish, the surroundings are beautiful, you fish in near solitude, and they are a challenge.
I think I love fishing mainly for that challenge. Of course there are many other reasons too - the scenery, the camaraderie, the fight. But it's really the challenge that I love most. If I am successful I will be holding a large, wild trout in my hands while a picture is snapped to commemorate the moment. And I will have accomplished this with a fake fly and a 3 ounce fly rod. But a lot has to go right for me to hold that fish. I could try jumping in the river, find a fish, and wrestle him into my arms but I would be unsuccessful 100 times out of 100. This challenge - finding the fish, finding the right fly, making the right cast, getting the right drift, making the right set, playing him right - is all consuming. Above all else it makes me live in the moment. I find this hard to do in my normal life.
Eating
The food was excellent. Some of the ingredients are easy enough to get. Like the grass fed beef. That's one benefit to staying on a working cattle ranch. But it takes more than ingredients to make a plate full of food turn into an empty plate. Juan is the chef and he cooked us some mean dishes. The highlights were probably the sheer variety of food we ate for lunch and dinner, as well as the asado (bbq) we had one afternoon out by the river. In looking forward to this trip, the naive American in me figured all I would eat in Argentina would be steak, and that all I would drink would be Malbec. Actually the latter almost turned out to be true, of my own choosing, but the few steaks I had were accompanied by stuffed chicken breast, beautiful ravioli's, and terrific fish. The asado was quite probably the highlight of the dining experience. We dined on a juicy ribeye, french fries, a fresh salad, and some of that Malbec, at a beautifully set table under a (mostly) blue sky, one day while fishing the Rio Pico. This ribeye and those fries were cooked over an open flame. This open flame materialized on a spot which just prior to our lunch was simply an open grassy area, somewhat protected by some bushes and trees so as to not let the wind put the fire out. It's a good thing that experiences like this aren't everyday fishing, for if it were the rivers might be overrun with spoiled fisherman.
One of the tangible benefits to eating well on this trip was that even if the fishing was slow, or the weather poor I could always look forward to the next meal with great expectations. If my sets were too quick, as they often were right after I spotted a monster brown rise from the depths to try to inhale my fly, I could relish the thought that the next meal back at the Lodge would not be any sort of disappointment like missing that fish was.
Comfort
The lodge was a warm and comfortable place to fall asleep in at night, to wake up to in the morning, and to lounge around in during the daytime when not throwing a size 4 Chernobyl ant at picky trout. The bed was very comfortable. It was very dark and very quiet at night, textbook sleeping conditions. The downstairs and upstairs common areas of the lodge were absolutely full of comfortable couches and massive windows. The shower pumped out hot water.
You know when you come upon something that doesn't seem to be a fit? Maybe it’s somebody who hates eating vegetables forcing down some brussel sprouts and trying to hide the discomfort. Or maybe it’s a dry fly enthusiast trying to fish a tiny nymph on the Rio Pico in howling wind. Tres Valles is a 5 star lodge sitting in the middle of remote central Patagonia – this pairing may not seem to fit at first blush. The area doesn't have electricity (lights were always on, however, due to their trusty generator). There are waaaaay more cows than people. The roads are not paved. But Tres Valles and Patagonia are the perfect match. I consider myself lucky to have been able to return to the Lodge’s abundance of comforts after a long day of trying to fool wily fish on a dry fly.
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Fecha de la estadía: diciembre de 2012Tipo de viaje: Viajé con mi pareja
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Ubicación
Limpieza
Servicio
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Esta opinión es la opinión subjetiva de un miembro de Tripadvisor, no de Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor les hace controles a todas las opiniones.
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